Cabbage Patch Beanie

I've gone Cabbage Patch crazy! :) The idea was sent to me by a former teacher of mine, and these beanies seem to be really popular.  I was being picky with the free patterns I found, and me being me, I refuse to pay for one, so, this led to me free-styling the beanie with a little help from my cousin. :)

There are 2 different beanies pictured.  One in black, and one in orange.  The orange is newborn-3 months size, and the black on is 6-9 months. (Sizes vary from baby to baby.)  The 6-9 month instructions are written in parentheses.  (Really, the only change you're making is the number of stitches you put in your magic circle.)

The numbers at the end of the line is the number of stitches you should have at the end of the round. You will always work your first stitch in the same space as the slip stitch.

Pattern Notes:
For this hat you'll need to know the loop stitch.  The loop stitch is basically a modified sc, but is difficult to explain, so you can find a tutorial here.

You can use any starting method you like, but I prefer the magic circle.  Mikey from Red Heart and The Crochet Crowd has an excellent tutorial that you can find here.

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn. (For the black one, was able to get the beanie from 1 skein of Vanna's Choice, and                                        the orange took less than half a skein of Red Heart Super Saver in Pumpkin.)
Size H/5.00mm hook and size N/9.00mm hook
Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Tape Measure
Ribbon (optional)

Abbreviations:
ch: chain
st: stitch
hdc: half double crochet
lp st: loop stitch
sl st: slip stitch
MR: magic ring
F/O: fasten off

Pattern:

Round 1: Work 8 (9) hdc into your magic ring.  Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Ch 1. 8 (9)

Round 2: Work 2 hdc into each st around.  Sl st to the first hdc. Ch 1. 16 (18)

Round 3: *2 hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next* around.  Join to the first hdc with a sl st. Ch 1. 24 (26)

Round 4: *2 hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 2 sts* around. Join to the first hdc with a sl st. Ch 1. 32 (34)

Round 5: *2hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 3 sts* around. Join to the first hdc with a sl st. Ch 1.  40 (42)

Rounds 6-12(14): Hdc in each st around.  Join to the first hdc with a sl st. Ch 1. 40 (42)

DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

Round 13(15): In the front loops only, work a loop stitch in each hdc around. Join with a sl st to the first loop stitch. Ch 1.

Rounds 14-16(16-19): Work 1 loop stich in the same stitch and each stitch around.  Join with a sl st. Ch 1.

Round 17(20): Sl st in each st around.  F/O

Weave in your ends including the tail from the beginning.  Mikey just fastens his off but I'm paranoid that the hat will fall apart so I weave my tail in anyway. :)

For the unbraided pigtails, I cut 35 pieces of yarn that were 20 1/2 inches for each side, for the braided ones, cut 33 pieces that are 21 inches long for each side.

To attach the hair (this is where your N hook comes in handy), flatten out your beanie and mark the side stitches of round 4 and pull the yarn through with your crochet hook. Fold in in half over the stitch.

For unbraided: Cut an extra piece of yarn longer than your pigtails and wrap it around the top of the pigtail where you folded it over the stitch, tie it in a double knot, and let it blend in with the rest of the yarn.  Trim the ends to make them look even.

Braided: With 22 pieces of yarn for each strand, separate your yarn and braid for about 10 inches.  Measure 7 inches from the top and tie off the braid with a spare piece of yarn.  let that piece blend in with the rest and trim the ends.  My braids ended up measuring 8 inches.  *Optional* Tie a ribbon around the piece of yarn holding the braids together.

Weave in all your ends, make sure everything's secure and your done! :) I hope this pattern is easy for you to understand, and if you have any questions feel free to contact me.  I would love to see pictures of your finished products on my Facebook page, Instagram, or on Ravelry. :)

Facebook: facebook.com/TRexyCreations
Ravelry: DesyCon
E-mail: toxicheartbreak@gmail.com
Instagram: TRexyCreations.

Happy Hooking! :)

Teddy Bear Lovey

This Teddy Bear Lovey is super soft and super cute for the little baby in your life :) Colors can be altered for a boy, girl, or unisex.  I think a bow on the bear would be super cute for a girl :)

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in light blue as my main color and coffee as my contrasting color.)
Crochet hooks sizes F/3.75mm and I/5.5mm
Tapestry Needle
Fiberfill or any stuffing of your choice.
10mm safety eyes
Scrap black yarn or embroidery thread

The blanket is essentially just a 12 round granny square made using a size I/5.5mm hook.  Use any granny square method you prefer.  I used this pattern found on Ravelry.

Once your 12 rounds are complete, fasten off and weave in your ends.  Then, taking your contrasting color, (in my case it was the color coffee,) Join in any ch 2 space with a sl st.  Ch 1.  Do 3 sc in the same ch 2 space and sc in each space and ch across.  Do 3 sc in each ch 2 space.  Join with a sl st in the beginning sc and fasten off.

Bear:

The numbers in parentheses is the number of stitches you should have at the end of each round.

Head:

Using your size F hook, do 6 sc in a magic circle.  If you don't know how to to a magic circle there are plenty of tutorials on YouTube, but my favorite is this one by Mikey from the Crochet Crowd.  Do not join to the beginning sc! 

Round 2:  2 sc in each st around (12)
Round 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc in the next* around (18)
Round 4: *1 sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in the next* around (24)
Round 5: *1 sc in the first 3 sts, 2 sc in the next* around (30)
Rounds 6-10: Sc in each st around (30)

Fasten safety eyes between rounds 7 & 8 about 1 1/4 inch apart and embroider on mouth and nose.

Round 7: *1 sc in the next 3 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts* around (24)
Round 8: *1 sc in the next 2 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts* around (18)
Round 9: *1 sc in the next st, sc dec over the next 2 sts* around (12)

Stuff the head firmly.

Round 10: Sc dec across next 12 sts (6)

F/O leaving a long tail for sewing.  Weave the tail through remaining sts to close hole.  DO NOT TRIM THE TAIL YET

Ears: (Make 2)

6 sc in magic ring (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around (12)

F/O leaving long tail for sewing.

Assembly:

Sew ears to head, then sew bear to round 1 in the granny square.  Make sure all ends are weaved in tightly.

And that's it!  I wrote this pattern completely from memory so if you find any errors don't hesitate to contact me!  I would love to see pictures of the finished product if you could send them to my Facebook, E-mail, or Ravelry

Happy Hooking!

Email: toxicheartbreak@gmail.com
Facebook: Facebook.com/TRexyCrafts
Ravelry: DesyCon

Spongebob Toddler Hat

Spongebob Toddler/Child Hat

Materials: 5.50MM/I crochet hook

                  Red Heart Super Saver Solids- Bright Yellow

                                                                    White (small amount)

                                                                    Coffee

                                                                    Red Hot (small amount)

                                                                    Turqua (small amount)

                                                                    Black (small amount)

                  Yarn Needle

Pattern Note: When assembling the hat, you can use sewing thread or unravel your yarn for a perfect match.

Abbreviations:

ch- chain

sc- single crochet

sc dec- single crochet decrease

hdc- half double crochet

hdc dec- half double crochet decrease.

dc- double crochet

st/sts- stitch

sl. st.- slip stitch

rnd- round

Half double crochet decrease: (hdc dec) yo, insert hook into next st, yo, pull through st, yo, insert in next st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

single crochet decrease: (sc dec) insert hook into st, yo, pull through st, insert into next st, yo pull through st, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Body:

With yellow:

Ch 26

Rnd 1: 2 dc in 4th ch from hook.  Dc in next 22 ch.  5 dc in last ch.  Working on the other side of the chain dc in each ch across; 2 dc in last ch.  Sl. st. to beg. ch. 3 join.

Rnds 2-9 : Ch 3.  Dc in each st around. At end of rnd 7 change to white.

Rnd. 10: Ch. 3 Dc in each st around.  Change to coffee.

Rnd 11: Ch 4. Sk 1 st, dc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, dc in next st.* Repeat * to * around.  Join with a sl st in 3rd ch. of beg. ch 4.

Rnds 12-13: Ch 3.  Dc in each ch. and st. around.  F/O.  Weave in all ends.  Flip hat inside out to hide color change.

Earflaps:

Mark bottom corners of hat with contrasting yarn or other stitch marker.  Join Coffee w/ sl. st. 6 sts. to either side of marker.  (Whichever side you join yarn on will become the back of the hat.)

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as hdc,) hdc in next 10 sts.  Ch 2 and turn

Row 2: hdc in each st across.

Row 3: hdc dec in first 2 sts, hdc in next 7 sts.  Hdc dec in last 2 sts.  Ch 2 and turn

Row 4: hdc dec in first 2 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, hdc dec in last 2 sts.  Ch 2 and turn.

Row 5: hdc dec in first 2 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, hdc dec in last 2 sts.  Ch 2 and turn.

Row 6: hdc dec in first 2 sts, hdc in next st, hdc dec in last 2 sts.  F/O.  Weave in ends.  Repeat for other side of hat.

At the end of Row 6 on the second earflap, ch 1 and sc around the entire piece.

Belt:

Ch. 53

Row 1: Dc in 4th chain from hook and in each ch across.  F/O. Weave in ends.  Weave belt through rnd. 11.  Sew down end.

Eyes: (make 2)

With black:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in 2nd ch. from hook. sl. st. to join. F/O weave in ends.

With blue:

ch 2

Rnd 1: 5 sc in 2nd ch. from hook. sl. st. to 1st sc to join. ch 1.

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around. Sl. st. to chain 1 to join.  F/O  Weave in ends.

With white:

Ch 2.

Rnd 1: 5 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sl. st. to first sc to join. Ch 1

Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around.  Sl. st. to ch 1. Ch 1.

Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc in 2nd st.*  Repeat from * to * around. Sl. st. to chain 1.  Ch. 1

Rnd 4: *1 sc in first 2 st, 2 sc in 3rd st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl. st. to ch 1. F/O Weave in ends.

Assemble eyes: Sew black pupil to blue, sew blue to white.  Sew both eyes onto body.

Eyelashes: (Make 6)

With Black:

Ch 5.  F/O.  Sew 3 onto each eye, sewing them to the BACK of the eyes, and then after sewing eyes to body, stitch down the top of the eyelashes.  Refer to picture for placement.

Teeth

With white:

Ch 3. 

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in last ch.  Ch 1, turn.

Rows 2-3:  Sc in each st across.  F/O Weave in ends.  

Nose:

With yellow:

Ch 2.

Row 1: 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook.  DO NOT JOIN!

Rows 2-3:  1 sc in each st. 

Row 4: 1 sc in first 5 st.  Sl st in next st.  F/O Weave in ends.  Sew to body at an equal distance between eyes.  Leave room for mouth.

Tie:

With Red:

Ch. 5

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch. from hook and in each ch. across. WITHOUT chaining, turn.

Row 2: Sc dec in first 2 sts.  Sc dec in next 2 sts.  Turn.

Row 3: Sc dec in both sts. Turn.

Row 4: 2 sc in st. Turn

Row 5: 2 sc in each sts. Turn

Row 6: Sc dec in first 2 sts.  Sc dec in last 2 sts.

Row 7: Sc dec in both sts.  F/O Weave in ends.  Sew to body with the top of the tie even with the top of round 10.

Mouth: Cut two pieces of black yarn approx. 5” long.  Hold them together and stitch them to the body.  (Careful with stitching or Spongebob will look like Spongebob Scissorhands!)  Fold teeth in half, sew the edges together, and refer to picture for placement of teeth.

Braids:

Cut 6 24” pieces of yarn.  (2 white, 2 brown, and 2 yellow.)  Fold in half.  Insert hook between two stitches in ear flap and pull the loop of all 6 strands PARTIALLY through.  Grab ends of yarn and pull through loop, tightening against earflap.  Braid strands.  Tie a knot at bottom of braid.  Trim the ends.

Make sure all loose ends are secured.  Enjoy! :)

Baby Boy Sandals

I was asked to create a pattern for baby boy sandals... So here it is!  This pattern will fit newborns-3 months, but the size can be easily altered by using a bigger hook.

I'm using a size C(2.75mm) hook and Red Heart worsted weight yarn with Grey Heather for the soles and Blue for the heels and toe strap..  You might want some stitch markers as well.  It doesn't take much to make these sandals so it's a great stash buster!



Abbreviations:

Ch: Chain
Sc: Single Crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Sl st: slip stitch
MC: Main Color
CC: Contrasting color
St/Sts: Stitch/Stitches
Sk: Skip
F/O: Fasten off.


When working in rounds the first stitch will always be worked in the joining stitch.

Pattern:

 Sole: (make 4)

Ch 9

Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next 3 ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next 2 ch, 7 dc in the last ch.  At this point the chain will have made a 180 degree turn and you're working on the back side of the chain. Dc in the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next 2 ch, sc2tog.  Sl st to the first sc to join.  Ch 1.

Round 2: 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in the next 7 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc in the next 7 sts, sl st to join.  Ch 1

Round 3: *1sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st* 3 times, sc in the next 7 sts, *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st* 5 times, sc in the next 7 sts, sl st to join. 

F/O

Set aside the sole color.  Using your other color, slip stitch two of the soles together.

Heel: (for left shoe, join on the left and work left to right, for right bootie, join on the right and work right to left.)

Find the center back of the sole and count 7 stitches on each side.  Place markers if needed.

Row 1: Join yarn at the marker.  Ch 1.  Sc in the same st and in each st across to the next marker.

Row 2-3: Ch 1.  Sc across.

Row 4: At the end of row 3, ch 17.  Sc in 2nc ch from hook and each st across.

Row 5 (buttonhole row): Ch 1, sc across to the last 3 sts.  Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc in the last st.

Row 6: Ch 1 sc across. 

F/O

Toe Strap:

Count 4 sts from the start of the heel and attach yarn.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 3 sts.

Row 2-12: Ch 1, sc across.

Sl st evenly to the other side of the sandal.

F/O

This is a newborn pattern, however if these booties are being made for the little cruiser in your life, I would recommend some non-slip fabric for the bottom of the shoes.  It'll save the little guy from lotsa boo-boos. :)




 Weave in all ends, attach a button and you're done!  Oh yeah, you have to make the other bootie! :)

Hope this pattern is easy for ya'll to understand.  If you have any questions feel free to contact me! Happy Hooking!

Facebook: facebook.com/TRexyCrafts
E-mail: toxicheartbreak@gmail.com
Ravelry: DesyCon

Super Simple Cable Scarf

As a beginning knitter, cables may seem terrifying.  I know they were to me, but after watching a simple tutorial on YouTube I caught the hang of it.  However, when looking at patterns, they were super confusing.  Things like slipping stitches "purl-wise" and knitting and purling through the back loops were scary to me as a beginning cable knitter.  After playing around with a few things and drawing a few diagrams, I came up with this pattern.  It's a simple pattern, the scarf is about 6 inches wide and you can make it as long as you like.

I used size 10 knitting needles with worsted weight yarn and a size 3 dpn to hold the stitches.  But use whatever size needles you're comfortable with or to match up with your yarn.  There was one point I was using a bobby pin to hold my stitches so use whatever you have handy.

Start by using the long-tail cast on method to cast on 36 stitches.  I used the knotless method which can be found here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC7ZiW6aoH8

After casting on, work pattern for 4 rows, ending on a row 2, then work a cable row, then work pattern from here on out for 5 rows, ending on row 1, then working a cable row. (The long tail cast on usually counts as the first row of a knitting project but I didn't count it here.)

So the pattern goes like this:
Cast-on
Row 1
Row 2
Row 1
Row 2
Cable Row
Row 1
Row 2
Row 1
Row 2
Row 1
Cable row

Pattern:

Row 1: k6, p2, k6, p2, k4, p2, k6, p2, k6
Row 2: p6, k2, p6, k2, p4, k2, p6, k2, p6

Cable Row:

K6, p2, slip 3 stitches onto dpn (or whatever you may be using) K3, k3 off of dpn, p2, k4, p2, slip 3 stitches onto dpn, K3 off of dpn, p2 k6.

Knitting off of the dpn

When you work your last cable row, work 4 rows in pattern and then cast-off by knitting straight across to give the beginning and end an even look.

Work as many repeats of the pattern as you like.  The scarf will curl up a bit, but blocking it after you finish will fix that.  I hope this pattern is easy to follow as I'm still new to the pattern-writing world.  Happy Knitting :)

Baby Gladiator Sandals

I got so sick and tired of people wanting me to pay for this pattern.  And I was sure I wasn't the only one, so I came up with my own.  This pattern is for size 0-3 months but can very simply be altered for an older child by changing the hook size.

I used a size C (2.75mm) hook and worsted weight yarn.  I don't have exact yardages, but these booties are a great stashbuster! The white I used is Red Heart Soft yarn in white as my contrasting color and the pink I used as my main color is Red Heart Super Saver in Petal Pink.

Ch: Chain
Sc: Single Crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Sl st: slip stitch
MC: Main Color
CC: Contrasting color
St/Sts: Stitch/Stitches
Sk: Skip
F/O: Fasten off.

The soles are worked in flat rounds, starting on one side of the chain and going around the end to the bottom part of the chain.  The beginning stitches in the rounds will always be worked in the same stitch as the joining.
Sole: (Make 4 with CC)

Ch 9

Round 1: 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next 3 ch, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next 2 ch, 7 dc in the last ch (for a smaller sole, use hdc in stead of dc.).  At this point the chain will have made a 180 degree turn and you're working on the back side of the chain. Dc in the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next 2 ch, sc2tog.  Sl st to the first sc to join.  Ch 1. (22 sts)

Round 2: 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in the next 7 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 5 sts, sc in the next 7 sts, sl st to join.  Ch 1 (30 sts)

Round 3: *1sc in the first st, 2 sc in the next st* 3 times, sc in the next 7 sts, *1 sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st* 5 times, sc in the next 7 sts, sl st to join. (38 sts)

F/O

Sew 2 soles together using MC  with the right sides out.  Then using the same color, sew a small stitch to the top center of the sole for the toe strap as I have done here:

The heels of the shoes are worked in back and forth rows.  There's a ch 1 at the end of each row for a turning chain.  For the left shoe, join yarn on the left and work left to right.  For the right shoe, start on the right and work right to left.  This way, the buttons will be on the outside of both shoes.

Starting at the center stitch and the back of the sole, count six stitch left, and six stitches right.  This will give you a total of 13 stitches for the heel.  Place markers if you need to.

When joining the yarn for the heel, you're going to join in the stitches made by sewing the soles together.  This is why I chose to sew them with the MC instead of the CC.

Heel: 

Row 1: Join yarn, ch 1 and sc in the same space.  Sc in the next 12 sts.

Rows 2 & 3: sc across.

At the end of row 3, ch 15

Row 4: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each stitch across.  

Row 5 (buttonhole row): Sc to the last 3 sts in the row.  Ch 2, sk 2 sts, and sc in the last st. 

Row 6: Sc across

F/O

Toe strap: 

 Ch 5.

Rows 1-4: Sc in each st across. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 5: Sc dec in the first 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 6: Sc dec. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 7: Work 1 tr in 1st st.

Without fastening off, join the tr with a sl st to the toe stitch we made in the beginning, or you can omit the stitch and sl st the strap to the 5th dc in round 1.  Then ch 1 to secure.

F/O

Sew the toe strap to the button strap.  I would do this after sewing on the button that way the straps wouldn't be crooked.

Make sure your ends are weaved in tight! :)

And that's all there is to it!  You can add a bow or some flowers or gems for decoration.  I hope this pattern isn't too confusing for you guys, but if you have any questions don't hesitate to contact me :)   Happy Crocheting!

E-mail: toxicheartbreak@gmail.com
Facebook: facebook.com/TRexyCrafts
YouTube Link to Video Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNAOoOwXGHc

Hello Kitty Bag

Hello Kitty Child’s Bag.

The hello kitty face is NOT my pattern. The pattern belongs to cakesbysabrina.  Here is the link:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dfATkNENXo
The strap is just a simple I-cord.  I used two pieces of yarn together.  There are tons of tutorials on the I-cord, however I used the one by bobwilson123. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQtTA4g2QqQ

You can use whatever yarn texture or color you want, just make sure that your hook size compliments your yarn.  If you use a chunky yarn, you may want to decrease the number of beginning chains.  If you use a finer yarn, increase the number of beginning chains.  I used Red Heart Shimmer yarn (which is a 4 ply worsted weight yarn) in hot pink as my main color (MC) and Vanna’s Choice Glamour (a 2 ply fingering weight yarn) in Platinum as my contrasting color (CC) and a size H or 5.00mm hook.
My bag is approximately 7’’ across and 4 ½’’ high.  The strap measures about 12’’ but the I-cord gives a little bit of stretch.
Abbreviations:
Ch- Chain
Sc- Single Crochet
Sl st- Slip stitch
MC- Main color
CC- Contrasting color
F/O- Finish off
Now for the pattern:

Bag:

With your MC create a slip knot on your hook.  The slip knot does NOT count as a chain.  With this in mind begin with a ch 31.  If this is too small, add more chains, if it’s too big, pull some chains out.

Round 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across.  Place 3 sc in the very last chain.  This will rotate your work so now you are working on the bottom side of the beginning ch.  Sc in each ch across, putting 2 sc in the last ch.  DO NOT SL ST JOIN!  You will work in a spiral for the remainder of the time you are working with your MC.

Row 2-21: Sc in each st around.  I prefer not to use stitch markers because they get in the way, but some crocheters may need them.  You can use scrap yarn in a contrasting color, bobby pins, safety pins, even earrings.  Use whatever you have handy.   On the last stitch in row 21, after inserting your hook in the stitch DO NOT yarn over with your MC.  Instead, YO with your CC.  You can use any method you prefer to change colors.

Row 22: With your CC sc around and join to 1st sc with a sl st.  Ch 1.

Row 23: Continuing with your CC, sc in each st around.  Join to 1st sc with a sl st.  F/O

Before attaching the strap, if you wish to sew in a lining you should do it now.  I didn’t use a lining, frankly because I hate sewing.  But if you want a lining you can put one in now.

At this point I would attach my strap.  If you use 2 pieces of yarn together like I did, it would be easier to crochet the flap around the strap.  Crochet your I-cord with long tails at both ends to use for sewing.  To ensure that you don’t see your sewing on the outside of the bag, follow this tutorial by Mikey from the Crochet Crowd: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hDxK5aTpww .  He’ll show you how to sew on your strap without messing up the outside of your project.

After your strap is secured, it is time to crochet your flap.



Row 1: Join your CC on the inside of one side of the strap.  I’m left handed so I joined on the left side.  If you’re right handed. You’ll join on the right side.  The distance between the inside of my strap was 25 sts.  When you join your yarn, ch 1 and sc in the same space.  Then sc across to the inside of the other end of the strap.  Ch 1, turn.  You will now be working in rows.

Rows 2 & 3- Sc across.  Ch 1 and turn.

At this point, decide if you want a rounded flap or a square one.   If you want a squared flap, continue with the back and forth rows until you reach your desired length.  For the rounded one, continue following the pattern.

Rows 4-13- Sc2tog, sc across to the last 2 sts and sc the last 2 sts together.  F/O

Border: Join CC and one end of the flap and sc around the entire thing, working over the tail where you finished off the flap.  F/O and weave in ends.

You’re now done with your bag.  Just attach your hello kitty and sew on some Velcro (refer to pictures for placement. I used about a 1’’ piece,) or a metallic snap or any closure you prefer.

Usually you would use a color that matches the Velcro; however I didn’t have any black thread.  Also, I would recommend getting the self-stick Velcro because as you can see my Velcro is crooked.  The self-stick Velcro attaches itself, and you can sew it on for extra security.

This pattern was completely written from memory so if you find any problems with it feel free to contact me.

Email: toxicheartbreak@gmail.com
Facebook:  facebook.com/TRexyCrafts
Happy Crocheting! :)